The cape on
which Exmouth is located was probably first sighted by Europeans in 1618
when the Dutch ship Zeewulf passed on route to the Dutch East-Indies. Early
maps refer to a river, which is believed to be a reference to Yardie Creek.
(as there are no rivers in the area.)
The French explorer
Baudin visited the area in 1801 and in 1811 the American
ship 'Rapid' was wrecked near Point Cloates; the first of what would be a
long period of contact with the Cape by Americans.
The first pastoral lease was taken out in 1876 by J. Brockman and covered
the whole peninsula. Thomas Carter, a famous ornithologist, purchased
property from Brockman and constructed a number of wells on the peninsular.
After a number of shipwrecks along the coast, lighthouses were constructed
at Point Cloates and Vlamingh Head in 1911-12. A whaling station opened at
Point Cloates and operated intermittently until 1957.
The name Exmouth originates from
Viscount Exmouth who served in the Royal Navy. The name was originally given
to the gulf by Phillip Parker King.
Anyone familiar with the Hornblower books and TV series will remember the
name
Admiral Pellew.
Pellew was a real person who joined the Royal Navy at
the age of 13 and rose rapidly through the ranks to become an Admiral and
finally was named Viscount Exmouth. He was a war hero and unlike the
fictional character Hornblower, Pellew really did exist.
At the top end of the North West Cape, Exmouth served as a submarine base in
WWII which was bombed by the Japanese. There are even reports of a landing
party from a Japanese submarine coming ashore at Yardie Creek in the search
for the nearby base.
In 1953 test
drilling found oil on Rough Range but it turned out to be a single small
deposit. It was not until 10 years later that another oil source was found
150 miles north east on Barrow Island.
Later (1962) the joint American / Australian communication station was set
up and Exmouth town was developed to support defence facilities on the cape.
The money
spent on facilities for the Americans by the state and federal governments
seems to have upset one of the local councilors who had been trying for
some time to get facilities for local residents. He is quoted as saying:
"Why should
those toadying sods in Canberra and Perth spend millions to impress a
handful of Yank sailors... ...For the money the politicians have spent on
swimming pools, golf links and chrome plated shit houses, they could have
dammed a couple of rivers and made a start on making this country produce
something that the world really has need of - food... ...Murdoch talks about
a shop window but he doesn't tell you there's no stock in the shop except a
couple of iron mountains out in the cactus which the Yanks bought at a
bargain price to sell to the Japs."
Exmouth town site was gazetted in December 1963 with the shire being declared in
January the following year. Prime Minister Harold Holt officially opened the
town on September 17th 1967.
The Americans and their left hand drive vehicles have long since departed
(moving out in 1992), and the communications base is now back in Australian
hands – as it should be!
There are 38 known ship wrecks on the coral coast and all but 12 have been
located. This makes the area a Mecca for scuba divers who have both the
wrecks and Ningaloo Reef to attract them to the area.
A time capsule was buried at the opening ceremony with the details of all
the town's residents at the time. It is not due to be opened until 2067.
A fisherman’s paradise. Both sides of the cape produce excellent fishing
with game fishing tournaments now a regular event.
Cape Range is a rugged outcrop of hills running
south from Exmouth almost all the way to Coral Bay.
At its highest point it reaches 314 metres and contains a number of
weathered canyons. Two, Potshot and Charles Knife are within easy reach of
Exmouth town.
A 4wd trip down the west side of the range with a stop off at Yardie Creek
is a must for all those with adventurous spirits. Try to take some camping
gear with you and stop overnight. Travelling slowly and exploring the area
is most rewarding. Remember to take plenty of water as there is none
available.
As with most of the north west, Exmouth is best visited between April and
October when the cyclones and hot weather are absent.
Learmonth Jetty used to be an excellent fishing spot but some idiot decided
to pull the old wooden jetty down and construct a horrible metal and plastic
‘thing’. It has been ruined as a fishing spot forever. Bundegi jetty,
although quite small also turns on some good fishing when the bait fish
shelter round the pylons.
Much of the town has been re-built since cyclone Vance in 1999 but sadly
Exmouth has been ‘discovered’ by the tourist hordes and the whole laid back
atmosphere is gone forever.
I have to admit to having a special place in my heart for Exmouth and the
cape so it was very sad to see the changes that ‘progress’ has wrought on
the town. Thankfully the National Park on the west side of the cape was as
beautiful as ever.
In June 2002 Exmouth received 305mm of rain in just 24 hours. If you check
that average YEARLY rainfall you will see that this exceeds it by 12mm.
.jpg "Click here for a short video")
